Monday, September 16, 2019

Mongoso European Post (Part 1 - Switzerland)


Saturday was weird. I woke up in Innsbruck, Austria and went to bed in Worcester. It continued on Sunday where I had to suffer the indignity of making my own breakfast! This of course signals that my idyllic trip to Europe has concluded and it is now time to inflict a recap on those of you foolish enough to wander to this blogsite. Thankfully most of this will be told through the accompanying photos instead of my fractured prose. So here we go. First of all this was the first time I ever took part in a truly guided tour and I loved it. Everything was taken care of, from picking us up at home, dropping us back there with everything in between including four star hotels and a Turkish guide (more on him later). AAA has definitely won me over and this will not be the last time I use them as well as Collette Travel which was the actual tour operator. This was a trip I’d long promised to my wife, who’d never been to Europe. We were waiting for our ride to show up figuring it would be some sort of van only to be surprised when a very nice limousine showed up with a nattily attired driver. He was a very nice young man who entertained us on our drive to the airport and also warned us about a European scam involving fake Wi-Fi accounts near popular restaurants that prey on tourists trying to log onto the real restaurant Wi-Fi. We were flying Swiss Air and got to the airport three hours ahead of our flight which made for a leisurely approach. We had time for a long dinner outside our gate while awaiting our overnight flight to Zürich.
In Bern Day 1
The plane was a bit of a disappointment as the boarding ticket bragged about Swiss Air being voted with having the best economy seating in Europe. Our flight back on Lufthansa put a definite lie to that claim as the Swiss Air seats were very close and uniformly uncomfortable. We took off around 9pm on Thursday and landed in Zürich at 12 noon on Friday. We made a spectacularly bad choice in immigration line choice thinking ours was moving the most quickly which it was, at least until the young lady immediately in front of us. She apparently had some sort of issue and we waited for twenty minutes while they tried to sort her out. We emerged from baggage claim to hear our names being called over the terminal loudspeakers. Our driver was desperately looking for us and was about to give up. We were united with him and a group of fellow travelers for the two hour drive to Bern, where we would be staying.
I sort of remember the trip to Bern due to my semi-conscious status as the body tried to figure out what time of day it really was. Bern, the capitol of Switzerland, was centrally located for the different tours we were taking and since it’s also listed as a UNESCO heritage site made a great choice. For a capitol city on a Friday afternoon it was very quiet, no bustle at all. Our hotel, Hotel Baren am Bundeplatz, was located across the street from the Swiss Parliament building and in the heart of the old city. We were immediately immersed in cobblestoned streets and atmosphere. We met our tour director, a Turk living in Germany called Oz, upon walking into the hotel lobby. Our luggage was whisked away and we were immediately sent up to our rooms to freshen up. Our room featured two twin beds pushed together but other than that was fine and offered a nice view of a the backside of an adjoining street across a  courtyard. My wife was not pleased with the twin bed arrangement and the hotel staff sent up a conversion kit that created a double bed for us. This is important because one of my roles in our marriage is to provide on-call body heat to my cold challenged Favorite Panamanian. We had a couple hours before the first get together of the tour so we took a nice walk around the parliament building behind which we got some spectacular views of the lower city lining the River Aare which surrounds the old city on three sides. I noticed a number of the rooftops had been converted to growing grass and other plants. Bern is a fairly small city with a population less than Worcester but had almost omnipresent public transportation with trolleys and buses. Something I also noticed and which was confirmed throughout my trip, Europeans smoke cigarettes like it’s still the 1960s.
Since we were operating on one hour sleep I was determined to stay awake until the appropriate time at night to overcome any jet lag. While my wife rested I went out in search of a convenience store to purchase the requisite hotel room snacks. I ended up seeing a large percentage of the old town until I found one – two doors down from the hotel. I returned to the hotel to make some notes and the desk chair immediately collapsed on me, not an auspicious start but it was quickly replaced. We then attended our first meeting of all the tour group members. Oz had us introduce ourselves which was interesting. My wife and I were definitely in the younger half of the group which speaks volumes about the ages involved. There was a nice couple from England and ten people from a single Ohio family who’d traced their roots to the Bern area and were chasing them down. This was followed with a complementary meal at a nearby restaurant where we were treated to my first ever (and last) cheese fondue dinner. We were seated with a very nice couple from Ft Worth, Texas at a table overlooking one of the main thoroughfares of Old Bern. The walk back to the hotel confirmed my earlier impression, for a Friday night in a supposedly vibrant city, it was deathly quiet.
Wife in Front of Swiss Parliamentary Building
Across Street from Hotel

Our Hotel

First Few Minutes in Bern

Wife Behind the Parliamentary Building

Views of Lower Bern and Aare River

Note Grass on Rooftops

Happy First Timer to Europe



Nearby Park with Fountain Honoring Mailmen (!)

On Walkway Exiting Park 
Wife in Plaza Next to Hotel

One of Remaining Towers from Original Town Wall
First Night Restaurant Immediately to Right

Typical Bern Street View with Trolley Approaching

Oz Talking to Group at First Night Dinner

View from our Hotel Room
Day 2 started off perfectly, at least for my wife, because our first stop was an immense rose garden which included a lecture on roses, one of my wife’s absolute passions. The rose garden was located on a hill across the river from and overlooking the old town. It provided some stunning views. Our next stop was the bear pit, literally. Bern is supposedly named after bears because that was the first animal the founder ran across when he was scouted the location. The bears didn’t seem that thrilled but Oz pointed out the enclosure had been expanded so the bears could wander down to the river through an extensive park and jump in if they wanted to. I later saw them doing just that. Bern is proud that Albert Einstein once lived there and he was alleged to have visited this location regularly, there was a cool statue commemorating that. We then set off on a walking tour of Old Bern. Bern was founded in the 12trh century but was completely rebuilt in the 1400s after it burned down. There were a number of medieval drinking fountains in the middle of many streets still providing drinkable water. They also provided a glimpse into earlier times. One of the most infamous was called “the child eater” because it shows a guy literally eating a child. It is an example of anti-Semitism because the eater is purportedly depicted as Jewish and Jews were persecuted as child thieves in the middle ages. It was kind of grisly. We wandered through the cobblestones dodging other tour groups and saw the two remaining towers of the original town wall, one of which included an elaborate glockenspiel with a number of moving statues. We passed by Einstein’s house and ended the tour at the central cathedral which dates back to the 13th century. It’s now a protestant church and featured a detailed and semi-gruesome depiction of doomsday. I guess the Swiss have always been a bit pessimistic. Since we were in a church and that requires an act of congress to get my wife to leave we missed out on the glockenspiel sounding. We made our way to a park next to the church which featured a bunch of booths selling mementoes. While my wife shopped I took in some more great views of the river. There was a also a guy playing one of those long mountain bugles. We then tried to make a trip to the hills accessed by a cog railway recommended by Oz. Unfortunately he gave us the wrong directions and after wandering the perimeter of outer Bern for nearly an hour we declared victory and returned to central Bern to find a ghost town. Everything closes at 5pm on Saturday and remains closed until Monday, just plain weird. We did find an American themed restaurant, loaded with kitsch, near the hotel for dinner. Again, this was Saturday night but the only people out were tourists.
Wife in Rose Garden

View of Old Bern from Rose Garden

I Think she Sniffed Every Single One

Closer View

Rose Garden Selfie

I Think she was Happy

The Garden Was Beautiful

Another View of a Very Happy Camper

The Bear Pit

Trying to Pick out Which Tourist to Eat

Hanging with Al

Watch your Hands Buddy!

One of Many Fountains

Glockenspiel

Another Fountain

Child Eater Fountain

I Wasn't Kidding 
Old Town



Glockenspiel Closer View

Glockenspiel Top

Glockenspiel Middle

Yep, Another Fountain

Einstein's House - Now a Museum

And Another

This One had Moses

The Big Cathedral

Pews for Children- Exquisite Detail

Organ Loft

Doomsday Entry

Aare From Beside the Cathedral




Bugler

Trolley Ride to Nowhere

Beautiful Dinner Date

Troll Across Table from Her
Day 3 was a very busy day as we set out on the bus for Lake Geneva. Our initial destination was the town of Montreux. This town was immortalized in the Deep Purple song Smoke on the Water and lies directly across the lake from the French Alps. We walked along the lakeshore which featured a number of sculptures including a well honored one of Freddie Mercury of Bohemian Rhapsody fame. Queen owned a recording studio there and the area boasts a number of famous celebrity residents. The area is actually called the French Riviera (I didn’t get it). I loved our next stop which was the Château de Chillon, a well preserved castle built on rocks just off shore and one of the principal castles for the House of Savoy and at least one pope. The dungeons were notable as 18th century tourists carved their names into the sandstone pillars. One such was Lord Byron, who later penned a poem called the “Prisoner of Chillon”. We returned to Montreux for lunch and then a train ride through the Swiss Alps to the celebrity haven ski resort town of Gstaad. The train, the Goldenpass Panoramic Train, ran through some truly remarkable, picturesque Swiss countryside. Gstaad wasn’t that remarkable but it was Sunday and virtually everything was shut down. Since the senior citizen quotient of our tour group was high, a long bathroom break was needed before we boarded the bus which met us there. I used this time to wander around the town a little bit. The long bus ride back to Bern on some back roads was incredibly scenic. Switzerland is so beautiful with soaring mountains, vibrant green Alpine meadows and omnipresent chalets festooned with flower boxes. I could see the wheels turning on my wife’s head about how we could equip our house with something similar.
First Glimpse of Lake Geneva

French Alps in Background

Lake Geneva looking Across to French Alps

Central Montreux

Selfie Time

Mercury Statue

Shoreline Sculptures

Walkway Along Swiss Riviera

Some More Montreux

More Montreux

Montreux Casino Which Burned Down to Start Smoke on the Water

Other Side of Freddie Statue

Wife Outside Drawbridge to Castle of Chillon

Highway Above Chillon

Outside the Keep

Chillon

Chillon 
Tour Guide Inside the Castle




Really Big Fireplaces

All Lakeside Windows Had these Cool Seats on Either Side

Wife in One of the Seats

In The Duke's Bedroom

Kitchen

House of Savoy Crest

Bedroom - Chair Next to Bed Had Chamber Pot




The Dungeon

Byron's Vandalism

Closer Look

The Dungeon

Train Ride Out of Montreax

Lots of Vinyards

Views on Trip to Gstaad








Rainy Gstaad

Celebrity Famed Hotel in Distance

Views of Gstaad





Bus Ride Back to Bern




Day 4 had an earlier start since we were driving to Lucerne which was incredibly beautiful (you’re sensing a theme here). Our first stop there was the Lion Monument. A very sad lion was carved into granite cliff to memorialize members of the Swiss Guards who were massacred defending the French king during the revolution. It was touching. We then headed to the Altstadt (old town) where the River Ruess empties out of Lake Lucerne. There was an impressive chapel bridge liberally festooned with flowers and featuring medieval paintings. We wandered through some of the old streets and I was struck by the beautifully maintained, painted ancient buildings. We walked across the bridge to the Jesuit church and when we walked inside I was stunned. The accompanying photos will not do it justice but it was one of three churches we saw during out trip that were decorated in baroque style and it is hard to describe the delicate beauty. We continued our free time walking around and I kept losing my wife. I found the best technique was to double back to the last jewelry store we had passed to find her. Our last stop in Lucerne was a place the ABFA, a well-known chocoholic, would have been in heaven. There was an actual waterfall of chocolate on one side of the store. We scored our requisite supply of Swiss chocolate mementoes before re-boarding the bus. Our next stop was nearby Mount Pilatus. It is so named because allegedly Pontius Pilate was buried there, this desolate place the only one that would accept him after his Jerusalem antics. For the trip up we used the steepest cog railway in the world and it was an experience. There were simply awesome views of Lake Lucerne and the surrounding countryside which the photos do not capture nearly well enough. We ran into a herd of the seemingly ubiquitous Swiss cattle with their over large cow bells half way up the very steep mountain. Shortly before reaching the top of the mountain we entered the clouds which unfortunately limited the views from the actual mountain top. We walked outside at the top into a couple inches of freshly fallen snow and my wife said, “Nope!” and executed a smart about-face to return to heated interiors. We did some shopping and had lunch in the mountain top hotel. After lunch I ventured outside solo to climb one of the side peaks and quickly became apprised of the lack of my usual supply of oxygen. It was a short climb but we were at 7000 feet so I definitely felt it. There was also a completely insane dude who jumped off the top of the hotel roof to paraglide down into the clouds. The ride down the opposite side of the mountain into Lucerne was via two separate gondolas. We were lucky enough to go down with a pair of gals from Illinois and Wisconsin who ended up being the best friends we made of the tour, just the right amount of crazy. We ended the day with a sleepy ride back to Bern where our last night in Switzerland was marked with a provided dinner in one of Bern’s best restaurants. We had a lot of fun because we were once again seated with some of the livelier members of the tour. Oz was keeping a close eye on us. Well, that’s all for today I’ll pick this up tomorrow with our trek to Austria through Liechtenstein, of all places. I hope you enjoy the photos.
Lion Monument

Eloquently Sad Lion

Selfie

Wife Always Making Friends

Central Lucerne

Wife on Chapel Bridge

Chapel Bridge

Altstadt Views









Looking Up the River Ruess to Chapel Bridge

Jesuit Church

Looking Downriver



Inside Church





13th Century Fortification - the Water Tower Beside Chapel Bridge


Add caption


Crossing Bridge note Paintings Above


The Chocolate Waterfall

Lake Lucerne

Start of Cog Railway up Mount Pilatus


Lake Lucerne from Train

Train Selfie

Wife Stole Camera

Going up Mountain

Higher 

And Higher

The Tree line

Hotel at Top


Looking Down from my Solo Walk - Catching my Breath

Clouds Parted Momentarily

Gondola Down

Looking Back up From Gondola

View from Second Gondola

Downhill

Towards Lucerne

Dinner in Bern

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RECURRING CHARACTERS                                           
BRS - Blog Reader the Sequel - second granddaughter; FBR - First Blog Reader - first granddaughter, ABFA – Amazing Best Family Athlete = my daughter in law; Wingman – my son in law; Keene Friends 1 & 2 – friends since high school from my home town of Keene, NH; Soxfather - my brother in law; Great Aunt = my elder sister; Cantankerous Friend – friend since grade school who likes to argue about everything, poses as radical leftist to attract women; Pittsburgh College Roommate – high school friend, also a “Minor Celebrity” in Pittsburgh; Deckzilla – our backyard deck which grew to monstrous dimensions once my wife got involved in planning; Maine and Virginia Musqueteras – two close friends of my wife – her US sisters, my wife is the 3rd musquetera (musketeer); Riggins - also known as the Grandpuppy, son's dog, surrogate grandchild while awaiting arrival of the BRS; PanaGals – female relatives/friends of my wife from Panama; Panamanian/Latin Mafia – inevitable group of Latino friends my wife accumulates wherever we have lived & their spouses; Neighborhood Mafioso - wife's close friend and Panamanian mafia member, Favorite Panamanian - the wife (of course); First Friday – celebrations to mark the First Friday of the Week; Deckzilla Dude – senior citizen carpenter/contractor; Voices of Inappropriate Worth - members of public who come to every Worcester public meeting to complain, all are on public assistance along with demeanor issues

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