This
was our second day in Lourdes, and it started out with mass for our group in a
small chapel across the river from the grotto. After mass we wandered over near
the grotto and took part in a very special event. Near to the grotto is an area
where pilgrims can fully immerse in special baths. We weren’t looking for that,
but we entered the area anyways with our group and experienced something very
special. We were escorted into the bath area by volunteers and faced each other
while praying. The volunteers then poured water from the spring over our intertwined
hands, had us wash our faces and drink some of the water. It was a very moving
experience and my Favorite Panamanian was sobbing by the end. That got to me or
there could have been dust in the air. Again, a very special moment.
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| Made it to the Castle!!! |
Now,
as to that castle I was writing about that towers over the town of Lourdes. We
had some free time after the cleansing and Father Matt said he was going up to tour
the castle. I think I resembled a tail wagging puppy when I immediately looked
at my wife. She knows how much of a castle nut that I am and acquiesced once I
assured her there was an elevator to the top (luckily, there was). It was a
fascinating walk through the streets of Lourdes to reach the base of the castle.
It had a very interesting history. The hilltop was first fortified by the Romans
and, because of its strategic location, has served everyone who followed them with
a fortification.
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| Basilica Seen from Other Side of River |
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| The Grotto |
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| My Very Cute Date |
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| Crossing the Bridge |
It
was occupied by the Moors who were besieged there by Charlemagne in the 800s.
The legend has it that an eagle dropped a large trout at the feet of the Muslim
commander when he was about to surrender. He used that to convince Charlemagne
that they still had plenty of food. An accompanying bishop convinced the Moor
that this had been a sign from God and that he should convert to Christianity
and come over to their side. He did and his name was the basis of the name of
Lourdes. Can you tell I was a little excited about touring the castle? My wife
was a good sport as I charged around the castle walls which offered spectacular
views of the surrounding countryside. She was a little miffed when she followed
me up a small circular staircase in the main tower keep. I was a little winded
when I got to the top and she archly informed me that there were 104 steps on
the way up. I think you only count when you want to demonstrate what an idiot
your husband is.
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| River Running Through Middle of Town |
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| Walking up to Castle |
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| Almost There |
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| One Last Turn |
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| Made It !!! |
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| View from Castle Wall |
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| A Very Happy Camper |
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| Yep |
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| Sanctuary Grounds Seen from Castle |
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| Rest of Lourdes |
My
idiocy wasn’t over though (huge surprise there). We came down from the tower
and I spotted the road that was used to supply the castle in olden times. There
was a small graveyard at the lower castle gate. I assured her that this was the
way to get down instead of the elevator. Boy, was I wrong. We got down to the cemetery
and found the castle gate locked. That meant we had to walk back up the hill to
the castle and take the elevator down. To her credit she was a good sport about
it, with that secret knowledge that I would pay for it later. Still, it was a special
hour or so I got to wander the castle grounds.
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| That Staircase |
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| Castle Garden |
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| Fabulous Views |
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| Garden |
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| Central Tower |
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| Just A Short Walk Down, I Promise |
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| A Fun Time |
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| What do You Mean We Have to Walk Back UP!? |
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| Loved It |
As
we walked down from the castle area that payment became due as we passed by
first a shoe store and then a linen store. Still on in high from the castle
walk, I didn’t mind as I perched on the street outside while she haggled. We
made our way back to the hotel area searching for a place to eat lunch. All our
breakfasts and dinners were provided but we were on our own for lunch. It was
at this point we became acquainted with the legendary rudeness of French
waiters. The first place we walked into the waiter offered us a table in the middle
of a busy walk way. When we said we’d prefer one of the adjacent vacant tables.
He acted as if we were asking for his first born male son and said it was impossible.
We turned around and walked out at this point. The next place we went into we
found some of group already sitting down. The waitress here was patient but
also rude with facial expressions questioning our intelligence constantly. It
was almost as if it’s required for them to be rude, bordering on arrogant. I’m
still mystified what the French have be arrogant about anything, but I digress.
We had a fun lunch despite all this.
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| Lunch Time With Friends |
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| Couldn't Stop Taking Pictures of the Castle |
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| Our Tour Group |
Our
afternoon was spent tracing the steps of Saint Bernadette. We passed through
the immense underground basilica, which can seat 25,000 people, very
impressive. We then accompanied our local guide into the village where we visited
the house where Bernadette was born, a former mill. Her family came on bad
times and was homeless for a time. They then moved into a former prison where their
entire family of six lived in a single room that was a former prison cell. It
was from this room that she set out for her Marian encounters. I was surprised at
how far this 14-year old girl walked to retrieve wood for her family., I couldn’t
see a modern 14-year old girl volunteering to do that (probably explains the
sainthood – sorry, just joking).
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| The Underground Basilica |
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| Immense |
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| Bernadette's House |
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| MIllworks Inside House |
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| The Former Prison |
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| The Family's Room |
After
dinner we decided to witness the nightly procession from the cathedral view instead
of making the walk again. It was an amazing sight from there as the videos
below will attest. As the procession reached the base of the cathedral guides have the procession walk parallel
lines to reach the final destination. The group was large, a little smaller
than the one we made the walk with, but it was still something I will never
forget.
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| Procession Seen from Above |
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| Basilica at Night |
We’d
gotten to know most of fellow travelers fairly well by this point in our trip.
I’ll write about them in further detail later. One of the more boisterous members
had for some reason identified us as potential drinkers of Guinness (okay, that
was mostly me). Before the procession, which they were walking in, they offered
to meet up at an Irish Pub they had located. They weren’t sure exactly where it
was but gave us a general location. Lourdes isn’t that big so I figured we
could find it. Again, my Favorite Panamanian was a good sport as we walked the streets
in a vain search of the pub. We ultimately failed as the throngs from the
procession made their way to their hotels. As we walked back towards ours, we
ran into our friends who had a better odea where it was.
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| Fun People at Bad Irish Pub |
We
eventually found it and eagerly mounted the stairs to enter. Both my friend and
I consider ourselves well versed in what an Irish Pub should be like. We were
in for a bit of a shock. Although the bartenders were all authentic Irishmen,
they had run out of Guinness and were fairly unapologetic about it. We had just
finished out first French beer when they rang the bell to indicate they had run
out of all beer. I think these Irishmen had been in France too long. We still
had a good time despite their abject failure. It was a special day again and
hanging with new friends is always welcome.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------RECURRING CHARACTERS:
ABFA – Amazing Best Family
Athlete – my daughter
in law; BR3 – Blog Reader #3 – granddaughter
#3; BRS - Blog Reader the Sequel -
second granddaughter; Cantankerous
Friend – friend since grade school who likes to argue about everything,
poses as radical leftist to attract women; CRC - Connecticut Riverboat Captain – another close friend from high
school, renowned sailor of the big river; Curbside
Girls – close friends of my daughter acquired during her single days in
Brooklyn; Czech Connection – Czech couple who’ve become good friends
along with their daughter (the Czech Shadow); Deckzilla – our backyard deck which grew to monstrous dimensions
once my wife got involved in planning; Favorite
Panamanian - the wife (of course); FBR
- First Blog Reader - first granddaughter; First Friday – celebrations to mark the First Friday of the Week; Great Aunt - my elder sister; Keene Friends 1 & 2 – friends since
high school from my home town of Keene, NH; Kindergarten Friend – friend since kindergarten whom I reunited with
after many years; Maine and Virginia
Musqueteras – two close friends of my wife – her US sisters, my wife is the
3rd Musquetera (musketeer); Namesake
Nephew – son of Great Aunt and Soxfather named after me; Neighborhood Mafioso - wife's close
friend and Panamanian mafia member; PanaGals
– female relatives /friends of my wife from Panama; Panamanian/Latin Mafia – inevitable group of Latino friends my wife
accumulates wherever we have lived & their spouses; PCR - Pittsburgh College Roommate – high
school friend, also a “Minor Celebrity” in Pittsburgh; PCR+1 - Pittsburgh College Roommate’s wife; Riggins - also known as the
Grandpuppy, son's dog; Seis Amigos - two couples from our condo complex
and my wife and I; Soxfather – my
brother-in-law (whom I miss more than I can ever explain); Tia Loca –
wife’s younger sister; Wingman – my
son in law; Wingmom – Wingman’s mom,
of course
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